Pistolsmith - PART 3

This is the last of this series for now, I want to write about other topics that will help you.
This series is to help educate the gun owner and NOT INTENDED TO OFFEND ANYONE.
We need to cover a few more topics on this subject to help educate you.
"GET IT IN WRITING FIRST"............ No factory or SMITH can guarantee 100% reliability when using reloaded ammunition because of the unknown competence of the reloader. Most reloaders that sell ammo are only interested in how many rounds they can crank out in an hour so as to make more money.

Having a revolver worked on is quite different than talking about a semi auto. After your revolver has been worked on, you must check that in the Single action mode your "HAMMER WILL NOT PUSH OFF" the engagement, it should hold about 30 pounds of forced finger pressure. If it fails the SMITH did NOT do his job properly. You now have a very serious problem. You must check your timing or indexing of each chamber, it must lock up before your hammer is pulled and reaches its most rearward travel and it locks into place in the SA engagement mode. The cylinder bolt must be locked in the individual notch at each chamber.
You must check all chambers immediately upon receiving your revolver back from the Factory or a SMITH or a Plater. There are many more checks that I will cover at a later time.

In semi auto work, most of it involves 1911 pistols, here everyone seems to be an expert. Customizing or modifying 1911 pistols is where the money is at and has become a major business in America. They once asked WILLIE SUTTON the famous bank robber why he robs Banks and he said, Thats where the money is.
You must know before you start your work project, are you preparing a street gun or a target gun, there is a world of difference. Street carry people want a super reliable pistol with about a SA of 4 1/2 lbs. Target people want a super light trigger pull with a 1 inch group at 25 yards, not that they can even shoot that well, its ego. If this is the case, you best specify what kind of accuracy you expect and what trigger pull in pounds you want. Get it in writing, I will not do target guns for people as a general rule, I will not give anyone a super light trigger pull.
Request a target of your pistol being fired after its completion using the factory ammunition of your choice. I PERSONALLY DO NOT TAKE JOBS LIKE THIS.

In a 1911 you must make sure your hammer does NOT FOLLOW DOWN THE SLIDE, and your disconnector works properly, as does your thumb safety and your grip safety. YOU SHOULD NEVER NEED A TOOL TO INSERT YOUR SLIDE STOP, any SMITH telling you to use a tool to help push the detent pin in the plunger tube while inserting your slide stop is a "FRAUD". Look at all the frames that are scratched right under the slide stop, because they are not set up properly.

NEVER LET ANY KNOW IT ALL WANNABBEE SUPERSMITH WHO NEVER WORKED AS A PRO FULL TIME SMITH REMOVE ANY OF YOUR SERIES 80 FIRING PIN SAFETY PARTS BECAUSE HE IS INCOMPETENT TO GIVE YOU A GOOD TRIGGER PULL USING THESE FACTORY DESIGNED AND INSTALLED SAFETY DEVICES.
There is no reason to discard the over travel set screw in an after market trigger if you know what you are doing.
I am sure this will make me a lot of friends, but the truth must be said, "IT IS WHAT IT IS".

Teddy Jacobson