Lets Talk Revolvers

WELCOME TO THE NO BS WORLD OF TEDDY JACOBSON
In a world of compromise, I will not, I am very opinionated and I don't play well with others but my HONESTY and my INTEGRITY is what I stand for. I can't change a thing, "IT IS WHAT IT IS".............

Current SW REVOLVERS are no comparison internally like they were years ago. Sure they work and they are reliable, but they are not the same. You will notice the hollow sound they make when they are dry fired.

RUGER REVOLVERS are basically the same proven work horse, that are still heavy and well made. The very real downside to RUGER is that they will not sell CRITICAL PARTS to anyone, you must return your Ruger to the factory for them to replace that critical part even if the part is a sear that cost one dollar.

COLT REVOLVERS are nothing like years ago. I very seldom get in a new Colt revolver. I do remember a Colt revolver that came in here and the barrel vibrated loose under recoil, it was a threaded barrel and was easy to repair.

DAN WESSON REVOLVERS has had two type of designs, one had a removeable plate and others were like Rugers. I do not dislike the Dan Wesson revolvers, I have always had problems trying to get parts for them.

CHARTER ARMS REVOLVERS were an economy revolver that I honestly tried to talk people out of spending a lot of money on one to refine it. It was always in my opinion a revolver I would not like to own. Did anyone listen to me ??? "NO"

TAURUS REVOLVERS look much better on the outside to me, than on the inside. Their ADVERTISING is wonderful with colorful full page ads, which delighted the owners of the publications and their editors. I am sure some WRITERS never met one that did not like or want to keep. They work well but have a rough action. Not my kind of personal choice.

ROSSI REVOLVERS are a closer copy the the S&W design than any other I have seen. Quality is about equal to what you have paid for it.
SAME GOES FOR "RUBY" REVOLVERS WHICH WAS MADE IN SPAIN. I would have been more interested in a Spanish woman in my youth.

FOLLOWING CLARIFICATIONS ARE NECESSARY;

CROWN - This is where the bullet leaves the barrel. It is critical for accuracy. You can not always see a bad crown. When a bullet leaves the muzzle and enters the atmosphere, if you have an uneven or jagged Crown you get a disturbed bullet entering the atmosphere and your fliers appear. My cutter as well as any good cutter are the only way to square it up properly, but it must be cleaned up a great deal after using a steel cutter because of the machine marks. If you want to see a really bad crown look at a third generation S&W semi auto barrel and run your finger around the very edge. If you want to see a really good crown look at the muzzle of an HK P7 semi auto pistol.

FORCING CONE - You can not just recut your forcing cone, if there is not enough metal to do it right. Changing the angle of the forcing cone on a revolver does not mean instant accuracy with all weights of bullets. Using an 11 degree (eleven) angle will improve some calibers using certain bullet weights, its more trial and error that a science. I use a gauge to determine if its safe to change the angle, if I feel that there is "NOT" enough steel to change the angle I will "NOT" do it, keep your money.

BALL CRANE LOCK - This is an added lock that is installed on S&W Revolvers where the crane interfaces under the barrel in front of the locked in place cylinder. A 1/8 of an inch hole is drilled deep where a spring is installed and a steel ball is inserted on top of the spring and it is crimped and captivated in place permanently. A detent circle is drilled into the bottom of the barrel for the ball in the crane to engage and lock into the recess while the cylinder is in the closed position. Its only necessary on a larger caliber in S&W Revolvers in K, L, and N size frames.

TIMING - When the chamber of the rotating cylinder indexes properly and lines up properly with the forcing cone, the cylinder MUST be locked in place by the cylinder bolt. OLD WIVES TAIL in books tells you to elongate the hand under some conditions for timing remedy. This will usually only work on the second stage part of the hand of a Colt Python type revolver action. In a S&W revolver I curve the hand with a special tool BUBBA made for me, which was no easy job, or I use a wider hand to solve certain problems. The new 7 and 8 shot revolvers cause more problems than the 6 shot revolvers.
In a Colt Python they use a 2 stage hand design, it is usually the second stage part of the hand that gets peened too short under heavy recoil. This must be corrected by replacing the hand and refitting the new one. New Colts use a different design PROBABLY BECAUSE THE OLD COLT SMITHS ARE DEAD.

Ruger Revolvers must be diagnosed by symptoms as there is no side plate to remove and watch the action while you work it. Same applies to some Dan Wesson Revolvers. Taurus and Rossi revolvers are similar to S&W revolvers as the have a removeable side plate.

Newer "TITANIUM" coated cylinders can "NOT" be touched, you can not chamfer or polish the chambers.

END SHAKE - is front to rear cylinder play that must be corrected because otherwise when the firing pin hits the primer the entire cylinder moves forward toward the forcing cone causing a "CLICK" instead of a "BANG" = "MISFIRE"

If you have an older S&W Revolver or a Colt do not sell it or trade it, keep it because they are a piece of history that is gone forever.
I am not telling anyone not to purchase a new revolver, I am just updating you.
Any questions EMAIL ME.

Magazines are wonderful entertainment, Forums can be wonderful CHAT ROOMS with some very well know NINJA KLOSET KEYBOARD KOMMANDOS dressed in BLACK that come out at night so that they can attack in their stealth outfit. THIS BLOGGER COMMENTARY IS THE REAL DEAL....

AUTHORS PERSONAL NOTATION:
This commentary as well as all my previous commentaries are my personal opinion only and my personal viewpoint only. I will continue to try and educate the people that want to awaken from the BS dream they have heard all their lives.
Thankyou.


Teddy Jacobson / Pistolsmith
www.actionsbyt.com
281 277 4008
tjacobson@houston.rr.com
jaj45f@alltel.net
www.actionsbyt.blogspot.com/