PARTS - My Opinion

WELCOME TO THE NO BS ZONE OF TEDDY JACOBSON

I will give you my opinion regarding parts that are available for 1911 pistols. In a future commentary I will discuss parts for other type pistols and revolvers. I have based my opinion on my years of installing various brands of parts. Take this for what it is worth as I mainly work on factory handguns and my work on custom 1911 pistols may vary because I always must take into consideration what a person wants in a custom gun. It really does put a little different light on the subject. I will make my comments very clear in this regard. I put all personal feelings aside when buying parts, as I do not have to like the company or the person. I just buy the best part for the money for my customers.


Triggers - for years I used Videki and King triggers, I always buy over size triggers that must be fitted to the individual frame. The downside to using a Videki or King trigger is that there is no take up adjustment, so I must install one. I now buy Greider triggers as I am told it is the same trigger as the Videki and it does look identical to me. I never buy a drop in Wilson trigger, which can be identified by the 2 pins in the trigger. I have no objection using a McCormick trigger with the bendable tabs but they are often loose in some frames that have a large trigger track. This requires that I extend the McCormick trigger top and bottom to take out the slack. McCormick triggers are out of stock many times when I order them. I will not install a trigger that remains loose in the track.


Grip Safeties - On most of the factory guns I work on I use a King 203, 204, or 205 grip safety. They work well when fitted. I have a grip safety adapter that is an add on to give you a raised area where you grip it for those that want a more positive dis-engagement. I will not be making any more of these adapters when they are gone.
If a person wants a high ride grip safety and its usually on a custom 1911 I am making, I use either a King 207 or a Brown memory groove type grip safety. On these high ride grip safeties the frame must be cut for the specific radius. Once in a while I will use a Smith and Alexander grip safety. I do not like deep dished out grip safeties where your hammer sits in a hole because you can not cock the hammer with one hand unless you have a super long thumb. I like things very simple in order to have a pistol that is user friendly.


Thumb Safeties - I have been using a Brown thumb safety for years. I have more area to be able to fit it properly. The down side to the Brown thumb safety is that where it interfaces with the detent pin coming out of the plunger tube, the Brown thumb safety should be thicker. I have used other brands of thumb safeties and I do not like them. Many of these people just buy parts from suppliers, and just put it in there own packaging. No one makes a really good ambi thumb safety. They all separate in the middle where the male/female union is under recoil. In order to make a good ambi safety it would have to have a solid shaft going through the frame. No one seems to care about south paws.


Hammers - I have no objection to using a MIM (metal injection molded) hammer. If they are made right, they are hard as hell. The problem lies where the supplier cuts the hooks. I have used a number of Wilson's better grade of hammers with no problem. I only use a very well made hammer in a custom 1911 pistol, even though I like the MIM hammer I will never use one in a $3500.00 pistol because its a status thing that would upset the owner. I like the C&S ultra light hammer for use in my custom 1911 pistols. I do not buy Brown hammers because at one time I had problems with them and it was more aggravation than it was worth. At this point in time the Brown hammers may be very good but I have not used one in years. I cut all my hammer hooks by hand and its not that easy, my hooks are an exact 90 degrees. I do not ever buy anything but good quality steel.


Hammer Struts - I like the McCormick hammer struts and I am sorry to say they have been discontinued. I modify all my hammer struts. Length of the strut is very important. I will probably buy Brown hammer struts when the current supply of McCormick struts dries up. I only buy steel parts, no alloy and no Titanium.


1911 Sears - I buy hard steel sears only. For years I have been using Caspians sears for my general repair work, they are good. For my custom 1911 pistols I usually buy C&S tactical sears. EGW makes a good hard sear. I am interested in knowing what is the material used and I want to know the rockwell hardness.
I do not buy alloys and or Titanium. I cut my own angles and I am not real concerned about the angle of the new sear.


Plunger Tubes - There are very few good plunger tubes that are currently made. Most have rivets (studs) that are too short so flaring is a problem. Many plunger tubes are not cut properly internally as the internal shoulder is either to short or too long. I have found that Brown gives you longer rivets but his plunger tubes are not finished well. I like the plunger tube made by Kimber, even if it is a MIM part. At one time Caspian made there own plunger tubes but they stopped production years ago and now just sell one that they buy. The old Caspian plunger tubes were excellent.


Main Spring Housing - I usually buy Brown main spring housings (MSH). For smaller hands a flat MSH is what you want. For a large hand an arched MSH would be better. If the pistol is to be carried I always buy a MSH that has 30 lines per inch checkering. If you use a sharply checkered MSH with 20 lines per inch it will ruin your clothing. I sometimes have used Wilson or Smith & Alexander, but I do prefer the Brown product. The pins you need are not usually supplied with the MSH.


Slide Stops - I buy most all the slide stops I need from Caspian, but they just buy them from a supplier. That is my opinion. I do modify these slide stops a great deal to make them more user friendly like in reassembly. I still believe the old Norwegian style was the best idea of all for right handed people. Not many companies or people care about us lefties. I personally will go out on a limb and state that I think there are only a few suppliers of many parts and that all these retailers go to the same source.


Firing Pin Stops - This one is real easy for me as I only buy Caspian over size firing pin stops. They are made very well but require fitting very carefully. I have used other brands but did not like them.


Firing Pins - Whether I need a 9mm or 45acp firing pin I usually buy them from Caspian. I do not like using a 9mm type firing pin in a 1911 pistol that is chambered for a 45 cal. It was solving a non existent problem. I buy only steel firing pins. I never buy an alloy or a Titanium firing pin.


Barrel Links - I have been buying Wilson barrel links for years with no problem. Their number 3 link is .278 which is the factory standard link. This Wilson link looks a lot better than ones that come when you buy a new barrel.


Barrel Bushings - I buy King barrel bushings, they are strong and well made. The ones I buy are over sized and I fit them to the barrel and to the slide. In some cases I use a Briley spherical bushing with the proper size nitride ring.


Ejectors - If its a commander I buy Colt. If its a government model I use either a King or Brown product. Length is critical and must be checked to allow you to remove a loaded bullet from the chamber.


Guide Rods - In a government model using a 16 lb. factory standard recoil spring I have no objection in using the short factory type guide rod. If you were to use a stronger recoil spring you would need a full length guide rod so the spring will not kink. I usually buy Wilson guide rods and they work fine whether you buy the one piece or the two piece rod.


Disconnector - I have been buying disconnectors from Caspian for years. I have no problem with them. I modify any disconnector I use, and I always check the length which is critical. They are made of hard steel.


Shok Buffs - I do not ever carry a 1911 pistol if there is a shok buff on the guide rod. I have seen them break apart and jam pistols. The best shok buffs are made by CP Bullets and are made out of hard nylon. If you want to use one, super glue them in place with Krazy glue gel.


AUTHORS PERSONAL NOTATION:
This commentary as well as all my previous commentaries are my personal opinion and my personal viewpoint only. I will continue this type of part evaluation in a later commentary.


Teddy Jacobson / Pistolsmith
www.actionsbyt.com
281 277 4008
tjacobson@houston.rr.com
jaj45f@alltel.net
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